Low cut buckle-fastened shoe with deep pointed instep vent - 2. quarter 13th century till 1. quarter 14th century.

Finds

Kolberg (PL)1, 1225-1300
Lund (SE)2
Schleswig (DE)3, ab 1280

Description

Low cut shoe with a deep, pointed instep vent and a narrow extended tabs for attaching a buckle and a strap to close the shoe over the instep point.

The upper is cut in one piece with possible extensions for the straps. The closing seam is on the medial side of the shoe. The heel is often raised a little bit.

The buckle is simple a circular buckle mostly made out of brass. It is fixed to the lateral extended tab. The end of the tab is folded arround the buckle and fixed with some stitches. A find from Konstanz 4 shows another possible method to attach the buckle to the tab: The tab was folded around the buckle and pulled through a slipknot. All finds show a top band attached to the instep and both straps. The Vamp has a more round shape and wasn’t pointed like the later poulaines from 14c.

Kolberg
ToDo
Lund
ToDo
Schleswig
Single find with a buckle attached to the lateral tab. 3/4 of all finds show a heel stiffener. A single find has a buckle attached to its lateral tab. The upper was made equally from cowhide and goat leather.

Here is a example made of cowhide with a Top Band made of goat leather. The buckle is made of brass.

Profilansicht
Profilansicht
Detailansicht der Schnalle über dem Spann.

  1. [Wywrot.2008] S. 182 Taf. XVII Nr. 3 und 4 ↩︎

  2. [Blomqvist.1935] S. 201 Abb. 20 KM 20348 ↩︎

  3. [Schnack.1992] Taf. 49 Nr. 1 ↩︎

  4. [Schnack.1994] ↩︎